Retinoic Acid Explained

Trans-Retinoic Acid, Retinoic Acid, Vitamin A, Pro-vitamin A, and Retinol are all common buzz words in the cosmetic skincare industry, here we take a closer look at what they actually mean along with their role in the realm of organic skincare.

Vitamin A

According to studies published in the Archives of Dermatology, Vitamin A applied topically has been shown to improve the appearance of the wrinkles associated with the natural aging process and how it may help to promote the production of skin-building compounds. Vitamin A along with the derivatives, for example, the synthetic pre-formed type Retinol, has been used for many years for reducing hyperpigmentation, treating acne and smoothing wrinkles. For many who choose organic skincare, it is about using natural products that are as 'close' to nature as possible which are bioavailable for our skin to recognize as another single-cell structure - not synthetic. 

Buzz words explained

Vitamin A - Is a fat-soluble vitamin that is also a powerful antioxidant, Vitamin A
plays a critical role in maintaining healthy skin. Vitamin A like all antioxidants are involved in reducing inflammation through fighting free radical damage. Vitamin A is found in two primary forms: 

  1. 'Active Vitamin A' - Comes from animal-derived foods and is called retinol. This “pre-formed” Vitamin A can be used directly by the body; it does not need to first convert the Vitamin. 
  2. 'Beta Carotene' The other type of Vitamin A, which is obtained from colorful fruits and vegetables, is in the form of “pro-Vitamin A” namely carotenoids.

Trans-Retinoic Acid - Is a synthetic prescription drug commonly used to treat acne and aging skin. 
Retinoic Acid - Is a member of the over 4,000-strong family of retinoids, which are compounds derived from retinol or vitamin A, or compounds structurally similar to it. Vitamin A itself is derived only from food, and cannot be made in the body. 
Retinol - Synthetic form of Vitamin A, derived from Retinoids in a laboratory or from animal sources such as Cod liver oil or egg yolks. Retinol is one of the Retinoids, or derivatives of Vitamin A. 
Retinoic Acid is the active form of Vitamin A, you can only get it with a prescription (eg. Tretinoin, or Retin-A) 
Retinol applied to skin > transforms into Retinoic Acid
Retinyl Palmitate applied to skin > converts to Retinol > converts to Retinoic Acid
Sunscreen must be worn during the day when using any synthetic Retinoid as the skin more sensitive to the sun.
Natural Trans-retinoic acid - Is a natural form of vitamin A, naturally found in Rosehip oil.
Pre-formed vitamin A - Simply means in a form that your body readily uses.
Pro-Vitamin A - Another term for Beta Carotene. 

Topical Application

We have chosen to use natural sources of Retinoic Acid and obtain them for the
following certified organic botanical raw ingredients :

Seabuckthorn Seed Oil - Omegas 3, 6 + 9 / Low Carotenoid / Vitamin A / Vitamin E
Seabuckthorn Fruit Oil - Omegas 3, 6 7 + 9 / High Carotenoid / Vitamin A / Beta Carotene // Vitamin E
Rosehip Seed & Fruit Oil - Beta-carotene / Vitamin E / Omega 3,6 + 9 / Lycopene.

Carrot Root OIl - Beta Carotene / Lycopene / Vitamin A / Vitamin E / Pro-vitamin A

To preserve the maximum amount of essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, we use oil which is extracted from Rosehip, Sea Buckthorn and Carrot Root Oils using a heat-free and solvent-free process called supercritical extraction also known as Co2 extraction.

    The main components we are sourcing for efficacious skincare benefits are /

    Linolenic acid
    An omega-3 fatty acid that is needed for the structure of cell membranes and helps dry skin conditions by providing essential moisture.
    Linoleic acid
    An omega-6 fatty acid that helps cells to provide a natural barrier to environmental damage.
    Oleic acid
    An omega-9 fatty acid that helps to repair tissue damage and improve skin condition.
    Trans-retinoic acid
    Naturally occurring vitamin A that helps to prevent premature aging caused by sun exposure. It helps to speed cellular turnover and increase collagen production for brighter, more radiant skin. It's the ability to repair the skin’s surface, reduce skin pigmentation, restore elasticity and protect against environmental stressors that lead to fine lines and wrinkles.
    Lycopene
    A powerful antioxidant (part of the carotenoid family) that helps protect and repair skin from premature aging caused by modern living and environmental stressors.
    Carotenoid 
    The carotenoid family includes alpha and beta-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, and lycopene
    Beta-carotene
    Is a type of carotenoid that’s found in plants. It’s known as a Pro-vitamin A carotenoid because it needs to be converted to active Vitamin A by the body. It also acts as an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from aging and improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin.
    Lutein
    A potent antioxidant which not only shields skin from your phone and laptop's blue light, but also from atmospheric pollutants like particulate matter's (PM) heavy metals and chemicals.

    CONCLUSION Synthetic Retinoids and all associated derivatives can cause skin irritation such as flaky, itchy, red and dry skin and some people simply cannot tolerate the topical application. As the founder of an Australian Certified Organic Skincare Brand, I have chosen to use the natural form of Trans-retinoic acid along with Beta Carotene, from four different Botanical sources, incorporated into Our Hero Product this can be used both AM // PM and daily without any of the side effects associated with Retinol. Rosehip oil is widely recognized for the effects of the natural topical trans-retinoic acid (vitamin A) it contains. The unique properties of rosehip oil were first discovered in 1983 by a team of researchers from the Faculty of Chemistry and Pharmacology at the University of Concepcion (Chile). Rosehip Oil produced the benefits of Retinol but without the secondary side effects. Because the trans-retinoic acid is contained in a natural state as part of a complex of unsaturated fatty acids, the action is controlled and slowly released eliminating the risk of skin irritations. Retinol is 'The Gold Standard' in 'age defying' skin care products with solid research and proven results to back it up, it is a personal choice of natural or synthetic and what is best for your skin and personal ethos.

    Until next time.. 

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