Vitamin C is one of the most studied antioxidants in dermatology. Offering Antioxidant Protection, boosting collagen synthesis, brightening and pigmentation control, photoprotection against UV skin damage, along with wound healing and barrier support.

Plants High in Natural Vitamin C

• Kakadu Plum: Is one of the world’s richest sources (up to 100x more Vitamin C than oranges).
• Acerola Cherry: Extremely high Vitamin C content.
• Camu Camu: Amazonian berry, very concentrated in Vitamin C.
• Rosehip: Contains Vitamin C plus carotenoids and fatty acids.
• Sea Buckthorn: Vitamin C-rich, along with Vitamin E and carotenoids.
• Guava, Blackcurrant, Kiwi, Citrus fruits: Are also strong natural sources, but less concentrated than Kakadu Plum or Acerola.

Skin Benefits of Topical Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic Acid is the pure, active form of Vitamin C, and one of the most studied antioxidants in dermatology.

1. Antioxidant Protection: Neutralises free radicals generated by UV radiation and pollution. Helps prevent oxidative stress and reduces premature aging (wrinkles, sagging).
2. Collagen Synthesis: Acts as a cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase, enzymes required for stabilising and cross-linking collagen. Improves skin firmness and elasticity.
3. Brightening & Pigmentation Control Fades dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and post-inflammatory marks. Contributes to radiance and even skin tone.
4. Photoprotection: Can enhance UV protection when combined with SPF.Studies show that Vitamin C plus Vitamin E plus Ferulic Acid synergistically reduce UV-induced erythema and DNA damage.
5. Wound Healing & Barrier Support: Promotes skin regeneration by supporting keratinocyte differentiation. Enhances recovery from environmental or procedural damage.

Why Ascorbic Acid is Challenging to Formulate with

Despite its potency, this form of Vitamin C is notoriously unstable in skincare products.
Key Challenges

• Oxidation Sensitivity: Ascorbic Acid easily oxidises in the presence of light, air, or heat, turning brown/orange (dehydroascorbic acid) and losing efficacy.
• pH Dependency: Requires a low pH (<3.5) for stability and effective skin penetration, which can cause irritation in some skin types.
• Water Solubility: Dissolves only in water, making it difficult to incorporate into oil-based or anhydrous systems without derivatives.
• Short Shelf Life: Even stabilised formulas often last only 3–6 months after opening, unless advanced encapsulation or anhydrous systems are used.

This is why many Skincare brands use more stable derivatives like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.

Why Vitamin C is Not Present in Plant Oils

1. Water-Soluble vs Oil-Soluble:
   Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is a polar, hydrophilic (water-soluble) molecule. Plant oils and essential oils are composed mainly of non-polar, lipophilic (oil-soluble) compounds such as triglycerides (fatty acids), terpenes, and esters. Because of this polarity mismatch, L-ascorbic acid simply does not dissolve in oils and therefore does not naturally occur in them.
2. Plant Tissue Distribution:
   In plants, Vitamin C is found in the aqueous compartments: The Cytoplasm of cells. The Vacuoles and the juices/pulp of fruits: These are water-based environments where Ascorbic acid is stable and active. Oils are produced from the lipid-rich parts (seeds, nuts, fruit flesh) via cold pressing or extraction, which excludes water-soluble molecules like Ascorbic acid.
3. Essential Oils Extraction:
   Essential oils are produced via steam distillation or solvent extraction of volatile aromatic compounds (terpenes, phenols, aldehydes).
   Ascorbic acid is: Non-volatile (doesn’t evaporate with steam). Water-soluble (would stay behind in the water phase). Therefore, Ascorbic acid cannot survive or transfer into essential oils.
4. CO2 Extraction:
   It is a highly potent and pure plant extract created by using pressurised carbon dioxide as a solvent due to its polarity and solubility. Ascorbic acid isn’t present in CO2 plant extracts.
5. Cold Pressing Extraction:
   This oil extraction method uses mechanical pressure to crush and press plant seeds, nuts, or kernels to release their oils, with minimal or no heat, preserving the plant oil’s natural nutrients, essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and provitamin A and vitamin E. Ascorbic acid isn’t present in cold-pressed plant extracts.
6. Maceration/Infusion:
   Maceration is one of the oldest artisan extraction processes that extracts oil-soluble plant compounds into a carrier oil by steeping dried herbs, flowers, roots, or fruits in the oil for an extended period, lasting weeks to months. The oil acts as a solvent, drawing out beneficial active compounds such as antioxidants and pigments.
7. Stability Factor:
   Even if trace amounts of Ascorbic acid were present during extraction, they would rapidly oxidise due to heat, light, and exposure to air during oil/essential oil processing/extracting.

Water-soluble vitamins: (C, B3, B5, B6, B7, B9) are best for brightening, barrier repair, and hydration.

Oil-soluble vitamins: (A, D, E, K) penetrate lipid layers for pro-aging, anti-inflammatory, and healing benefits.

Conclusion

Ascorbic acid is hydrophilic and exists in the water-based parts of plants (fruit pulp, juices, leaves). Plant oils/essential oils are lipophilic and contain oils or volatile aromatics, not water-soluble vitamins.

That’s why Vitamin C is never naturally present in oils, but instead, skincare/cosmetic formulators use oil-soluble derivatives like Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate or Ascorbyl Palmitate to bring Vitamin C–like benefits into oil-based skincare.

The Vitamin C misinformation is rife on the internet, social media, ingredient suppliers/distributors, including Skincare Brands that perpetuate the myth of the presence of natural Vitamin C in plant oils and essential oils. The difference between water-soluble and oil-soluble vitamins is based on scientific fact, it’s chemistry. 

LUCA Lipid Ferment Vitamin C Serum offers Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, a stable, slow-release Vitamin C derivative that is oil-soluble. This High-Performance-Active is known as VC-IP® and it clinically proven to lighten hyperpigmentation, and boost the synthesis of collagen reducing the appearance of wrinkles
+ Antioxidants scavenge free radicals and protect cells, anti-inflammatory properties help reduce/lessening the occurrence of acne.
+ Shown to exert Antioxidant effects within 30 minutes of skin application 
+ Remains active for up to 40 hours following skin application. 

Note: Hydrophilic means: Water-loving; having an affinity for water; capable of interacting with water through hydrogen bonding. Lipophilic meaning: Able to dissolve, be dissolved in, or absorb lipids (fats).

Until next time, be human, be kind, be you.

REFERENCES:

• Do essential oils contain vitamins?
  https://aromaticstudies.com/do-essential-oils-contain-vitamins
• Ascorbate function and associated transport systems in plants
  https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0981942800007828?utm
• Chemistry of ascorbic acid
  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemistry_of_ascorbic_acid?