How To Minimise UV Skin Damage With Vitamin C

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I understand the toll chronic stress takes on your mind, body, and skin. Throughout many years of figuring out my health issues, I have channelled my existing knowledge as a Holistic Remedial Therapist and up-skilled as a Certified Cosmetic Formulator to create FIFTY7KIND, offering a collection of Multi-Award-Winning, Luxury formulas elevated by High-Performance Clinically Proven Actives, designed to holistically treat the impact of stress, by calming, nurturing, rejuvenating and restoring balance to the skin. Every product is made by hand in my Artisan lab in Australia.

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  Gabrielle

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate ATIP

Did you know that 80% of visible signs of aging are caused by UV (sun) exposure? If you desire healthy, and radiant skin, protecting against UV damage is paramount, preventing skin damage is preferential to trying to reverse existing skin damage – think hyperpigmentation, melasma and accelerated skin aging. While SPF remains a cornerstone of sun protection, complementary skincare strategies can amplify your daily skin defences. 

Here is why I chosen to formulate with Vitamin C Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), a potent antioxidant with remarkable photoprotective properties. The daily application of ATIP can significantly minimise skin UV damage and promote skin health.

  • ATIP is one of the most stable forms of vitamin C 
  • Suitable for all skins including sensitive
  • Upon skin application ATIP has a 84% conversation rate into free L-ascorbic acid 
  • Offers superior absorption due to its lipophilic nature
  • Ability to penetrate skin on an enhanced level, this ensures a controlled and targeted intracellular penetration, which greatly reduces the likelihood of skin irritation
  • ATIP has been shown to exert free radical neutralising effects within 30 minutes of skin application 
  • Remains active for up to 40 hours following skin application. 

Understanding UV Damage

UV radiation from the sun comprises UVA and UVB rays, both of which penetrate the skin and induce oxidative stress. This oxidative stress triggers the production of free radicals, leading to DNA damage, collagen degradation, and accelerated skin aging. Prolonged or excessive UV exposure can result in sunburn, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, and an increased risk of skin cancer.

Causes of Hyperpigmentation

Skin pigmentation is a common condition that can be triggered by various factors. The three leading causes of skin pigmentation are genetics, sun exposure, and particular medications. The most common causes are:

  • Sun exposure – The body produces more melanin, in order to defend itself against UV rays from the sun. This may make the skin more pigmented, to shield it from the sun’s rays.
  • Skin inflammation – Areas of skin can darken after people have had inflammation of the skin. This can include acne, eczema, lupus, or an injury to the skin. People with darker skin are more likely to develop post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
  • Melasma – Darker patches of skin can form when people experience hormonal changes. This type of hyperpigmentation is common during pregnancy.
  • Reactions to drug use – Certain medications, such as antimalarial drugs and tricyclic antidepressants, can cause hyperpigmentation. In these cases, patches of skin may turn gray.
  • Chemicals – Included in topical treatments can also sometimes cause hyperpigmentation.
  • Medical conditions – More serious causes of hyperpigmentation include Addison’s disease and hemochromatosis.

Skin Benefits of Vitamin C

  • Antioxidant Defence – ATIP combats UV-induced oxidative stress by neutralising free radicals and preventing cellular damage. Its potent antioxidant properties intercept harmful molecules before they wreak havoc on skin cells, minimising the risk of sunburn and photoaging.
  • Collagen Preservation – UV exposure accelerates the breakdown of collagen, leading to loss of skin elasticity and the formation of wrinkles. ATIP stimulates collagen synthesis, helping to preserve skin structure and firmness even in the face of UV assault.
  • Brightening Effects – Hyperpigmentation is a common consequence of UV exposure, resulting in uneven skin tone and dark spots. ATIP inhibits melanin production, effectively lightening existing pigmentation and preventing further discolouration.
  • Enhanced Sunscreen Efficacy – While not a substitute for sunscreen, ATIP complements sun protection by bolstering the skin’s natural defence mechanisms. When used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, ATIP enhances UV protection and minimises the adverse effects of sun exposure.

How Vitamin C Works

In cosmetic formulations, ATIP is typically incorporated into serums, creams, and other skincare products designed for topical application. Its lipid-soluble nature allows it to penetrate the skin’s lipid barrier more efficiently, reaching deeper layers where it can exert its beneficial effects.

When applied to the skin, ATIP undergoes enzymatic conversion to ascorbic acid, the active form of vitamin C. This conversion process ensures a steady release of vitamin C within the skin, maximising its efficacy over time. Additionally, ATIP’s stability makes it less prone to oxidation, ensuring product potency and shelf life.

Cosmetic Ingredients that Boost the Effects of Vitamin C

Vitamin E (Tocopherol) – Vitamin E is another powerful antioxidant that complements the antioxidant activity of ATIP, providing enhanced protection against free radicals and oxidative stress. Formulations containing both ATIP and vitamin E can synergistically improve skin health and resilience, reducing the visible signs of aging.

CoQ10 (ubiquinone) – This is a naturally occurring compound found in the human body and commonly used in cosmetics as an antioxidant. It plays a crucial role in cellular energy production and acts as a powerful antioxidant and helps to even skin tone, reduces sun damage, improves skin hydration. Vitamins C and E are needed to activate coenzyme to its active state.

Skin Synergies – Coenzyme Q10, Vitamin E and Vitamin C work in tandem to deliver a potent dose of antioxidants, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promote even skin tone, reduce age spots, and protect against UV and environmental damage.

Brighter Skin Days Ahead

LUCA Lipid-Ferment Vitamin C Serum – Has been formulated to be a ‘day’ serum ideally for morning application. An Advanced Urban-Defense Brightening Complex, ith a Luxurious skin feel, potent anti-pollution and blue-light serum to visibly revitalise and protect, boosted by a powerful skin-brightening Vitamin C complex combined with the efficacious synergy of Vitamin E and CoQ10 – your skins’ future is bright!

  • Lightweight Penetrating the skin quickly without leaving any residual or greasy skin feel.
  • Perfect Base – For makeup and/or sunscreen (SPF)
  • Essential Oil Free – This helps reduce the possibility of skin irritation and the occurrence of skin phytotoxicity from essential oils read my Blog “Skin Phototoxicity And Citrus Oils”
  • Backed by Industry Experts – 5 International Beauty Shortlist Awards, the most recent 2024 Win “Best Skincare Product with Vitamin C.”

HOW TO APPLY

Until next time, be human, be kind, be you.

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REFERENCES:

  • Thawabteh AM, Jibreen A, Karaman D, Thawabteh A, Karaman R. Skin Pigmentation Types, Causes and Treatment-A Review. Molecules. 2023 Jun 18;28(12):4839. doi: 10.3390/molecules28124839. PMID: 37375394; PMCID: PMC10304091.
  • Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593
  • Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., & Monteiro-Riviere, N. A. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826–832. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x
  • Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866
  • Raschke, T., Koop, U., Düsing, H. J., Filbry, A., Sauermann, K., Jaspers, S., Wenck, H., & Wittern, K. P. (2004). Topical activity of ascorbic acid: From in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 17(4), 200–206. https://doi.org/10.1159/000078824.
  • Flament F, Bazin R, Laquieze S, Rubert V, Simonpietri E, Piot B. Effect of the sun on visible clinical signs of aging in Caucasian skin. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2013 Sep 27;6:221-32. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S44686. PMID: 24101874; PMCID: PMC3790843.

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